Fashion For The Coming Season by Helen Goddard - November 1895
This season the sleeve is the disputed point. The balloon puffs that have for many months held their own against the ridicule which assailed them are not so easily discarded for the close snug effects that have been heralded since mid-summer. Women have grown accustomed to them, and though they murmured at the extravagance in material, felt that a certain style was imparted to a gown by the extra number of yards which was fashioned into sleeves.
For this reason a modified arrangement in this part of the gown will be preferred by many to the extreme close style. This medium sleeve, which is shown by the sketch and for which a cut paper pattern is furnished, is the one which has been especially selected from French designers to meet the needs of those who have a new gown in mind, or the remodeling of an old one.
It has but one seam which is under the arm. The upper part is disposed in folds that droop from the shoulder, and the lower part below the elbow follows closely the outline of the arm. The shape and style of the sleeve will be found equally effective for velvet, silk or woollen materials.
A side view of the latest design for a dress skirt is shown by the sketch on this page. It gives the plain effect at the waist, both in front and at the sides, with the requisite fulness at the back; which gradually sweeps into flaring folds at the foot of the skirt. It should be faced here to a depth of ten inches with French haircloth, or one of the soft American finish which has been previously shrunk.
If over this haircloth facing a taffeta silk facing of the same depth is placed, it will give the silken rustle to the skirt which is so desirable, even if the main part of the skirt is lined with percaline.
The bodice coat that is shown by the sketch is of fashionable tailor cut, combining the vest, which provides for a variety in material and color, without detracting from the simplicity of the style.
The wide straps of the dress material decorated with rich fancy buckles, and the handsome buttons on the vest, provide sufficient decoration to give relief to the severity of the cut, while the flare at the sides and back of the bodice skirt gives that touch of style to the costume which a closer effect would lack.
The combination of this latest French design in bodice, sleeve and skirt is shown on the finished green street dress at the top of this page. The gown is a special design from one of the leading costumers in Paris, with whom arrangements have been made to furnish a series of designs in color for costumes and gowns, with cut paper patterns of the same.
Shown at Left - Top: Child’s Winter Dress and Misses Street Dress.
Bottom row: Misses House Dress and Child’s Street Dress