Artistic Needlework 1909
Embroidery on net, an art quite neglected for a long period, is now regaining its popularity and lends itself to the most beautiful effects. Chemisettes and waists, bands and trimmings, in fact many charming effects may be obtained with comparatively little work and at a small cost. Most of the trimmings are worked on machine-made netting, which is far less expensive than the hand-made variety, and really preferable, as it has a very smooth and even surface. The net is obtainable in black, white and ecru, and most of the leading dry goods stores carry also various colors, at a very reasonable price. For the variety of embroidery described, a very narrow, flat silk braid is used, and in some cases the figures of the pattern are outlined with crochet or embroidery silk. The braid is worked in darning-stitch, passed under and over the bars of the squares, as in Illustration I.
In the small figures, the braid is passed over three or four squares, according to the pattern, in a manner resembling the flat or satin-stitch. The stitches must always be made with an upward motion, as this gives a better appearance to the work. To begin a new stitch, bring the needle down to a lower row. A tapestry needle with a dull round point is used. In large figures the braid is worked in darning stitches, passing the braid over and under every alternate bar, as in Illusration II. to obtain a neat effect, it is preferable to bring the braid back, leaving it loose, on the wrong side of the work, working the upper or right side always in the same direction. This has also the advantage of providing a sort of padding, which gives to the finished work a raised effect which makes it very attractive. The pattern should be drawn on heavy paper and the net basted over this paper.
The simpler designs may be worked by counting the bars, in the same manner as for cross-stitch work. It is essential to avoid twisting the narrow braid, which must always lie perfectly, on the underside as well as on the right side; the beauty and neatness of the work depend upon this rule. When the work is done by counting the bars and squares, it is very convenient to stretch it over a small frame or hoop. Press the braid lightly between the thumb and the forefinger, to mark the crease at each end of each stitch. When the work is entirely finished, press it lightly on the wrong side with a moderately hot iron.
Illustration III is a simple pattern, very pretty for waist trimming. Cut a strip of net of the required length, and for the width count twenty-two squares. Two squares at each side must be turned under and run with the braid to form the border. Run the braid through the squares in darning fashion, catching into alternate squares when making the second row of braid. It is better not to cut the braid before reaching the full length of the band; the only difficulty, in that case, is to keep the braid from twisting, but after a little practice this is easily managed. To make the small figure, begin at the center square, work over two squares with a flat-stitch, working two stitches for each of the four petals. Catch the braid on the wrong side with a few stitches.
The band at Illustration IV is worked with horizontal stitches only and is very simple. A careful study of the pattern will enable any one to succeed in making it. It is always better in this kind of work to make the stitches from left to right. Begin the squares at each side with the center stitch, then execute the upper stitches and last the lower stitches, bring the needle back at last to the center stitch of the opposite square.
The pattern at Illustration VI differs somewhat from the others in the serpentine band which runs through the center. This band is worked in darning-stitch and with four rows of braid. A small figure fills the space left at each side of the middle band. One row of squares is left between the border at the side edges and the pattern at the center; if however, a wider trimming band is desired, a larger space may be allowed between the edges and the pattern. The outside border may also serve to widen the band, by selecting any of the fancy borders of the other figures. The detached figures, filling the triangles, consist of horizontal stitches. It is easy to follow this pattern by studying carefully the illustration and counting the stitches; the undulated center band is executed first, but always after the edges are run.
The side borders of the band at Illustration VII are rather more elaborate and lend a very pretty effect, especially when the trimming is to be applied to soft, light material. To make this border, run first the outside row of straight braid and make the small bars by making two stitches, one below the other, each over one square. Make the next bar by working two stitches into the next two squares. The cross-bar threads of net between will show and provide the apparent space. Make another straight row of braid to match the outside row. Begin the center pattern at the middle of the netting, working first the right side and then the left side of the lozenge, as shown in the illustration.
The band at Illustration VIII is somewhat similar to Illustration VI, but instead of straight bars, the stitches in the border are overhanded, one row lower at each time. A straight row of braid outlines the inner edge of each border. The pattern is formed of wide lozenges with a dot in the center band; small dots or triangles are disposed in each point formed by the pattern near the outside border. The serpentine pattern is worked in overhand stitches, each over three bars of the net, and each one row lower and one row to the side of the previous stitch.
On Illustration IX the edges are worked like those in Illustration VII except that the space left between the bars is one square wider. A single row of braid in darning-stitch runs through the pattern in V-shape. The spaces between the points are filled by detached figures, the small like those described for Illustration III, and the larger composed of alternated outside and underside flat-stitch, or point lance. The center of this figure is filled with a small dot.
The work on the band at Illustration X is all in darning-stitch, outlined with rope or crochet silk; the stems and small leaves are worked with this same silk. This method of embroidering the net gives a rich and elaborate effect. The small figures may be made in flat-stitch and in that case they are not outlined with silk; this combination of the two stitches gives charming variety. For the execution of the large figures follow the directions for Illustration II.
Illustration XI shows another example of the work obtainable with braid on net. The figures in the center are executed in flat-stitch, both vertical and horizontal; the stems and small figures are worked with crochet silk in cross-stitch; the wide border at each side consists of two straight rows of braid outlining a small pattern, worked with silk in cross-stitch. This pattern is especially well adapted for bretelles, front bands and also for insertions or panels on skirts made of light materials.
At Illustration XII some of the stitches used in the bolero-blouse or brassiere are shown. The small sprays and leaves are made with crochet silk in darning-stitches.
At Illustration XIII are shown two figures that may be used as insertions or on trimming bands similar to those illustrated here. They are made in a combination of the various stitches described.
